I was happy to jump back into the spring season with a lively conversation about the making of Spanish wines with Certified Grand Master Winemaker, Charles Fajegenbaum, owner and consulting wine maker for Grapemasters.
Charles, who also runs Fermentations at 201 Danforth Avenue, has a loyal and steady clientele of wine connoisseurs and hobbyists. Recently, Charles announced that after many years of effort and research, fresh, frozen crushed grapes from Spain’s Catalonia area will be finally available in Ontario.
“People thought I was crazy going to Catalonia and shipping crushed frozen grapes back to Canada but I wanted to offer my clients with an opportunity to make their own wine with a higher calibre of grape than those trucked in from California’s wine regions,” says Charles.
Joan Pujades (left) Charles Fajgenbaum (right)
In 2012, Charles met Joan Pujades, owner of Mas de la Caçadora in the Montsant Appellation in Catalonia. The two hit it off instantly and soon Charles was helping to hand-harvest 20 tonnes of some of Spain’s premium wine grapes, destined to be de-stemmed, crushed and frozen before being shipped back home, where they are held in freezers until required. The result is a product that rivals fresh grapes with the added benefit that the product is available to be made into wine at any time of the year.
The Montsant Region has a long winemaking history. It is a region known for its perfect grape climate and family run vineyards and wineries.
Some of the wines: Sampled included two wines from Joan’s, Mas de la Caçadora winery. The Rosa La Guapa Red, a coupage of 90% Carignan, 5% Grenache Noire and 5% Merlot. Fermented in open oak barrels then, after it has been pressed, it is covered for a further 10 months. Rosa La Guapa is an intense, full-bodied wine.
Quom of 40% Merlot, 25% Carignan, 25% Grenache Noire and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged for 9 months in French, American and Hungarian oak barrels. It is lighter than a California Cabernet. A lively and full-bodied with an intense red cherry color.
The third wine, Temperanillo from Grapemasters. A dry but fruity medium to full-bodied wine. A refreshing red that pairs well with many foods, however something a little piquant, like spicy sausage, or of course, a zesty Spanish cheese like Manchego is ideal.
A Grenache Noir Clos 2012 was also part of the tasting. Grenache Noir forms the backbone of many fantastic wines, including Chateauneuf du Pape or is used as a complimentary blending grape with Syrah or Carignan, or even completely on its own where it typical flavors of cherry, currant and licorice show through. It is far richer in character than typical California Grenache.
Charles has entered wines made from his Spanish must in various competitions and the feedback has been very encouraging. In 2013, a Tempranillo/Merlot blend scored a bronze and a Grenache Blanc/Macabeo scored silver. At the Ontario Provincial Competition in 2014, where 14 wines made with the frozen must took medals.
“No other ‘make-you-own-wine’ establishment is doing this,” says Charles. “And my clients have welcomed the flexibility the must gives them in being able to make world-class wine at any time of the year.”
To understand Charles’ journey to getting the best frozen Spanish must, take a look at this short video:
“We have a great partner in Mas de la Cacadora, whose wines are also available in Canada through 30.50 Imports,” adds Charles. “30.50 Imports distribute the Mas de la Caçadora offerings to the restaurant and hospitality industry in Ontario. This is another plus for our clients who know that our frozen Spanish must comes from the same vineyard whose wines are being sold to recognized establishments.”
So, if you’re a winemaker looking for a new product to make your own wine, or if you’d like to find out more about wine making but don’t know how or where to start, make your way to Fermentations. Charles is the expert that you seek to answer all your questions and get you started.
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